Last night at school I had a client who wanted a spa facial, but after looking over her health form, I saw that she checked that she was pregnant, and I knew I could only give her a basic facial. I hoped she would be okay with that, and it turned out she was. I explained that I couldn’t use anything electrical on her while she was pregnant.
This particular client was African-American and had very dark skin. After I did her skin analysis, she asked me if there are different treatments for different ethnicities. I thought that was a really good question, and Colleen and I were actually talking earlier about giving facials to clients of various ethnicities. I know that different skin types are prone to different things, but is there a difference in how we should take care of their skin?
Besides using cleanser, toner, moisturizer and sunscreen daily, are there any additional steps that people of various ethnicities should take with skin care? What about when I do a skin analysis on someone with darker skin: Will oil show up as noticeable as it might on someone with lighter skin? This client had dryer skin, and it was very noticeable in the skin scope. I didn’t notice if she had any oil on her face, but I’m not sure if it’s because she really didn’t have any or if it was because I needed to look a little more closely. I still need to get better at identifying things through the mag light and Wood’s lamp.
So while I was doing the facial, we talked a lot. Unless the client iniates it, I usually don’t talk. I want their treatment to be as relaxing and enjoyable as possible, but if my client talks, then I will. I know a lot of estheticians prefer not to talk, and I really didn’t think I would like to, but I find that it relaxes me to talk or even to listen to them talk. I’ve had a few clients who have talked to me throughout their treatment and they ended up having a great experience.
My client last night gave me an excellent evaluation and tipped me 50%! She wants to come back every week for a basic facial. I should’ve told her she could request me! Not because she tipped me well, but because I felt I bonded with her and she was really interested in taking care of her skin. She asked me a bunch of questions about different products and we talked about home care. I like when I have clients who are really interested in taking good care of their skin, but could I be getting a little carried away with talking and getting to know my clients? Is there a line we shouldn’t cross?
May 23rd, 2008 at 9:58 pm
Hi, Sandra,
It’s me again:)
I do not know everything about skin: I learn as I get more of experience. I only came to US 10 years ago. Back in Russia I did not have any client with her skin darker than “olive” color: there were almost no people with African roots since Pushkin’s grate-grandfather.
When my former boss hired me she gave me an article to read. I realized that black skin is more prone to keloid scars, so we should be double careful with it. But shouldn’t we be that way always anyways? I worked in a spa located in the heart of Harvard University. The public there was very diverse. I developed the idea that the amount of melanin in a person’s skin is a secondary factor. If your client becomes your partner, together you win radiance. I trust my fingertips to observe each client’s skin first. Then I bring on a magnifier and stretch skin inch by inch. It shows a lot!
If you want, take a brake after school, come to visit (you can even stay in my house), I’ll show you a few things. Look at our web site: anything you find there (but body massage) I expertise. But in our profession theory is not enough: you have to practice.
I hope it’s not too confusing (English is not my first language, and I speak better, than I write. Thanks for understanding.
http://www.a-salon.com
May 24th, 2008 at 2:11 pm
Hello,
I am a licensed medical esthetician that has been practicing for almost 11 years now. In my experience I have worked with any and all skin types. As for African American or Women of Color a few rules of thumb should apply. 1. Be very careful when performing exfoliation services or extractions on these skin type. Women of Color are very prone to hyperpigmentation which will be very hard to remedy. 2. Women of Color have a higher prodution of oil compared to a caucasion person. Knowing this, you stated that your client had dry skin but look beyond the surface. Are there a lot of blackheads? Are they using products that are stripping the surface of the skin thus resulting in dehydrated skin instead of dry skin? Which brings me to 3. Explain to your client that she should have a facial every 4-6 weeks instead of her desired 1 week. While facial services feel great you want the skin to have ample time to rejuvenate on it’s own. Plus this gives the client a sense of trust knowing that you have their best interest in mind and that your not just out for their money. This will also allow you to develop a relationship where you will be able to sell them home care products and keep them coming back for more!
May 24th, 2008 at 2:51 pm
Handling ethinic skin is like handling any other skin. Skin analysis is the key to unlock the door to this mystery among Estheticians. Evaluate the skin type based on the size and placement of the pores. Are they large, medium or small? Where are they placed on the surface of the face? Large pores indicate more oil production and small, less vivible pores indicate less oil prodction or dryness. I have to disagree that all skin of color tends to be more oily.
All skin types deal with the lack of hydration or water. Since oil and water do no mix, they are mutually exclusive and the skin needs both to be healthy. Moisturizers help the skin retain more water, but a hydrating serum or hydrating masques are beneficial for all skin types.
Then, you want to look at the condition of the skin. Some clients will swear they have acne when they have the presence of a breakout on an isolated area of the face. This is also where the melanin discussion comes in. If the melanocytes are larger, then, they are going to react more to more agressive treatments. It is a good idea to get familiar with Fitzpatrick scale as a part of your skin analysis. You need to pepare the melanocytes for the controlled trauma caused by peels or microdermabrasion treatments. From there, you can determine the right course of action based on the client’s skin type, condition and lifestyle preferences.
I have been building clientele for four years as of July and a good portion of my clients have skin of color. Some I see on a weekly basis, but only for a Eurpoean style facial - more massage, extractions, treatment serums and creams. Others I see ever other week for corrective peels or monthly for overall maintenance. No matter the skin type or color, treatment is your job - clients want to see and feel a noticible improvement. I am very happy to hear about your connection with the client. It is a rare gift to be able to connect with people on the level we have the opportunity to. Take care of the client on these levels and you will be successful in this business.
May 24th, 2008 at 9:13 pm
Hi, Angela,
I can sign under every statement of your comment. Very good point about connection an building a bond “aesthetician-client” by communicating with them at their comfort level.
May 27th, 2008 at 3:01 pm
Svetlana: As always, thank you!!! I know I still have so much to learn and sometimes I feel like I’m never going to get there! I like how when you look at a client’s skin under the mag light you stretch it inch by inch. When I look under the light, I’m trying to concentrate on what I’m seeing that I forget to touch my client’s skin. I’ll have to remember that for my next facial and try it. As for coming to visit and learning from you, I would love that! I can’t take a break from school right now as I have 4 months left and so much to do in that time, but I will keep it in mind for when I’m done. I really appreciate the offer! You are very kind!
May 27th, 2008 at 3:09 pm
Donna: I didn’t notice any blackheads on my client, but then again, I do sometimes have a hard time seeing them. You’ve given me some great pointers and I will remember them for next time whether it’s with this client or another one. I hope I see her again so that I can tell her to come for facials more on a monthly basis rather than weekly. I never know how often to tell my clients to come back. For the most part, I tell them monthly, but we have a few clients who come in pretty much every week and I always wonder if it’s too much. Thanks again for the tips!
May 27th, 2008 at 3:29 pm
Angela: I’m so glad for this blog because I’m learning so much. I read comments like yours and realize how much I still need to know and I cannot wait to begin working so that I can get the experience and gain more knowledge. You’ve given me a lot of things to think about and look into more. Thanks for reading and commenting!
June 13th, 2008 at 7:41 pm
Yes, I feel there needs to be more education on Ethnic skin care. They seem to be more sensative. I did microderm on many African-American clients but all seem to reac differently. One did well untill 2 days later when she called and stated she was swollen and bruised. It is difficult and scarey to say the least in treating them with any kind of peels or products. I have found that using products for women of color works great but I am still leary and would like more education on this subject.
July 19th, 2008 at 3:17 am
Thanks to Angela and the informative comments
about skin in general. As skin care professionals it is our job to know how to properly skin type. Ethnic skin comes in more
colors than just Afro American. Our profession is an on going learning process, we should always try to stay up to date and open to learn.
As an African American Esthetician, I find that there are some very stereotypical skin myths or
misinformation that causes misunderstanding of our skin. First of all skin is skin. As for ethnicity, skin typing is done the same way as for any skin. But to learn the unique differences of skin colors through educating one’s self will be an asset and not limit you. Learn all you can about as many races as you can. Make it your business to know.
I must share that I have performed facials an all
races of people and found just as may oily skinned, blackheads, milia, on caucasians, also. This has been my experience. Dry skin, combination skin types, oily skin, Acneic skin, sensitive, comes in all skin colors.
The skin changes every 30 days give or take a day or two. So regular facials prescribed for at least one per week will not harm the skin, under
normal circumstances.
As for skin sensitivity, this comes in all races
as well. As I mentioned before, that this has been my experience. I hope this helps some one.
Ms Susie Q, Georgia
at