Colleen and I went to a chemical peel class on Sunday. Colleen just did an entry on this, so I’ll try not to repeat what she wrote about. I thought the class was really interesting. I really don’t know much about peels. I have yet to do one and I’ve never had one done to me. I do know that they’re supposed to help with hyperpigmentation, acne and wrinkles. After going to the class on Sunday, I really want to do a peel now, and I want one done to me! I think I’m more nervous to have one though because I’ve seen what it looks like when they’re being done, but I don’t know what it looks like for the next week or so. This may be a dumb question, but does your skin actually peel? Will your skin become flaky and just look dry? How often should you have a peel? Some of our clients come in once a week for one.
The morning session of this class was theory. We went through a workbook and took notes and talked about different skin types, different skin disorders, different types of acne and contraindications for each of their peels. And even though a lot of what we talked about we have learned in school, the more this information is gone over with me, the more it’s sinking in. The instructor was very knowledgable, and she taught the class with a good pace: not too slow, not too fast. She also had really good skin, which I notice a lot more now with people in the industry, and she really sounded confident in her products.
As Colleen mentioned, the peels we saw at this class are different from the ones we use at school. I thought all peels needed to be taken off so I was really surprised to see that these products were left on. Have any of you used different peels? Which do you prefer: the one you remove or the one you leave on? What do you think the benefits are to each? I’d love to hear your thoughts.
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June 12th, 2008 at 1:49 pm
What type of peel and what skin care line is it.
June 12th, 2008 at 2:45 pm
Sandra,
Plain Salicylic acid is self neutralizing, TCA peels are not removed but cool compresses help to soothe the client. Yes they will peel.
Some not for 3 days and then continue for 5-10 days..Depending on skin type and age of client.
If the Salicylic acid is mixed with Glycolic or retinol or mandelic acid it must be removed with water and cool compress. Depending on the program you are doing to resurface skin one peel every week for 3 treatments is good to do to breakdown the old startum corneum and stimulate new cellular changes fast.
NOT TCA peels.. these are only once a month to once every 3 months at the most.
Each person is individual as to how well they recover after each session.
Once I do a series of 3 superfical peels I then have them come in 2 weeks.. Peel again..evaluate results.. then once a month for maintanance with good home care products. 80% of all skin care success is home care use of the correct product. You can change as their skin needs vary with the weather, vacation and stress and age. I teach advanced skin care classes and can give you more insight as needed. Email Eileen: http://www.eileen@imageskincare.com
June 12th, 2008 at 3:23 pm
It really depends on the peel. When I first went to school for skin care and heard I’d be learning how to do chemical peels, I thought of the Kim Catrell (from Sex and the City) when she showed up to an award show a short time after receiving chemical peel and her face was bright red and peeling.
There are different kinds of peels, and different concentrations. My favorite peels is glycolic, I use Sonage and they have 5 phases, phase 1 starts with a with a lower concentration of glycolic. If you start out slowly and with relatively low levels of acid, whether it be glycolic, lactic or malic and work your way up peeling shouldn’t be too bad!
A Jessner’s peel, however, you will ABSOLUTELY peel…sometimes for up to two weeks!
Don’t be afraid to experiment, but chemical peels can be extremely dangerous so be sure to read instructions, and try to have your teacher or a professional spot you or walk you thru it.
Good Luck!
June 12th, 2008 at 3:26 pm
I love peels and feel after a certain age, every one should have them. They penetrate the skin and get your skin cells to turn over more quickly which is great to slow down the aging process. I believe that is one of the best benefits of a peel. I have used both one you remove and ones that you keep on. I prefer the latter. The products I use contain a mixture of different acids for best results. Some clients peel for a few days and others do not. I also love Jessner peels which leaves the skin looking fantastic. They are stronger and you really need to know what you are doing to avoid any problems. You definitely will peel for a few days with Jessner, but well worth it.
June 12th, 2008 at 3:35 pm
Hi Colleen and Sandra,
I have a lot of experience with peeling treatments and actually run a training program where we teach a large portion on chemical peeling treatments, so I will try to address as many questions as I can.
1. Will you peel? That depends on a number of factors. The type of peel being used, the strength of the peel or number of layers applied, the condition of the skin, skin type and the type of products the client is using at home. In our practice we try to distinguish between superficial peels and deeper peels by calling the superficial peels resurfacers. With resurfacers (Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Beta Hydroxy Acids) most often the client may experience some mild flaking, minimal sensitivity and redness in the skin. With the chemical peels (Jessner’s and TCA) the client will most likely experience tight skin with redness, followed by the skin actually peeling.
2. How often should one receive a peel? Again that depends on many factors. But generally superficial peels can be performed in a series, spaced 1-2 weeks apart. The deeper peels need to be used with caution and most often are spaced 3-4 weeks apart and are limited to 3-6 treatments per year.
3. Preference and benefits of various peels- Leave on peels (self-neutralizing)can generally be made more potent by applying multiple layers, therefore they are better suited for those that desire a stronger treatment. The peels that need to be neutralized are timed peels- these are great for more sensitive skin types or first-time peeling clients, because they can be easily controlled by the amount of time left on the skin. You can also determine the type of peel used by the client’s skin conditions or what they are trying to treat. There are many different chemical peel lines and they all vary slightly- so follow the manufacturers instructions first. In my experience- Alpha Hydroxy Acids are best for thin, sensitive, drier skin types. Beta Hydroxy Acid (Salicylic Acid) is best for oily, acne skin and darker skin types. Jessner’s are great for hyperpigmentation and oilier, thicker skin. TCA (Trichloracetic Acid) works best on moderate to severe photo-damage, fine lines and acne scarring.
I hope this helps- good luck to you both!
June 12th, 2008 at 3:51 pm
I work in a doctors office and I prefer chemical peels over doing Murad facials. We use a number of different peels, some use a neutralizer and others self neutralize. Most peels dont peel, it takes using a Jessner or more intense peel to get the skin to peel. Chemicals peels are great for any skin, awesome results. What type of peels were u educated on? Do u work in a spa or medical spa?
June 12th, 2008 at 9:19 pm
There are many different types of peels as many already know. In reference to the peels you take off and the one’s you leave….it just makes sense to the skin if you are able to apply a peel that you can leave on the skin. PCA Skin is the product line that i’ve been using for years. The base is a Lactic Acid base as opposed to a Glycol Base peel solution (Jessner’s Peel). Our body already produces lactic acid so this solution is not “foreign” to the skin as a Glycolic peel is (which is why you have to time and take off).
I recommend that you look into PCA. Talk about RESULTS and the fact that the clients don’t leave my office with a red, irritated face (like the Sex in the City show). You’re clients will be pleasantly surprised with the results and the lack of trauma to the their face!
June 12th, 2008 at 10:31 pm
hi, i have a question, about peels too. I often do a microdermabrasion and then do a jessner peel, in the same sesion, it has given me great results, but this last patient called me 2 days after de chemical peel and told me that she is really burned, it dosent hurt, she is just worried about the texture of her skin, she says its feels very dehydrated like a cardboard, i told her to use a very very rich moustirizing cream and to use termal water. As i said i have doen this before many times and i know jesner dosent peel that much and so fast, and the texture of her skin is very unlikely with this peel. If someone knows if theres something else i can do or something to prevent hiyprpigmentation please let me know. Thank you
June 13th, 2008 at 11:10 am
There are alot of peels on the market today but the best on that I have used is by Cosmederm technologies. They have a patented anti-irritant so the peel is still at a very low PH but without the irritation that you experience with most peels on the market. This peel alows your clients to have no down time, little to no irritaion and all the results. The Cosmederm 50% peel is distributed by UBS Aesthetics, it’s also available in 30%. The price point on it is very nice and it super easy to use. Hope this helps.
June 13th, 2008 at 11:12 am
Chemical peels can be daunting to even the most experienced skin care practioner if you don’t throughly understand the science behind them. The standard 30% glycolic peel is not so much the gold standard anymore as lactic, salycilic, and enzyme peels are becoming more popular and the results are remarkable. Of course the main concern for the professional is choosing the right one, fear of burning the skin or causing damage to the clients skin. My advice is to, A). make sure you are properly educated in the product line you choose as well as chemical exfoliation science and theory. B.) try the peel out on a friend or co-worker as well as yourself first… know what it feels like and the result that can be expected. A thorough skin analysis and health history is paramount in avoiding any mistakes. C.) If you’re not absolutely comfortable with the product or treatment DON’T Do It! As a professional you have to stand behind your work, you’ll gain more respect and trust from your clients by admitting that you’re not totally comfortable with a treatment as opposed to feebily working your way through one, hoping for the best.
As you gain more knowledge about chemical exfoliation you will find out that most of the peels we do as estheticians are superficial, meaning the outer most layer of the stratum corneum is exfoliated. The skin may not actually peel, but that does not always mean that exfoliation is not taking place. Peels that are left on the skin continue to work microscopically to loosen dead skin cells. Chemical peels come in many forms for various skin types and skin problems. Like anything else, more is not always better. Each clients skin is like a fingerprint, therefore relying on one treatment, one protocol for all is not good judgement. Know your client, know your products, but above all know your limitations.
June 13th, 2008 at 12:52 pm
Peels are great although some people with sensitive skin do not do well with peels. Even the lowest grade of acid can irritate sensitive skin. Those who are not sensitive, love the feel and look of the skin after a peel. The skin does not physically peel with a 25%-30% peel such as Lactic or Glycolic. 70% peels and higher will cause the skin to peel leaving new skin produced by the new cell growth.
If you see someone who looks like raw meat, they have had a laser peel or something along that line done by a physician. Of course the healing time is much longer and after treatment is much more serious verses just staying out of the sun for a day or two after a low grade chemical peel. Then you have mechanical peel suchas microderm abrasion or diamond abrasion.
Personally I prefer the diamond abrasion. It is less uncomfortable and there is no risk of the crystals getting in someones eyes, nose or ears and works very well do reduce scaring, fine lines and hyperpigmentation.
June 14th, 2008 at 11:50 am
Another trick with the peel- it can be layered with
a lift mask over it- great results
Product to use it Helga Van Dykes Revitae Line
boath for peel and mask
June 15th, 2008 at 5:32 am
Dear Terry Wojak,
Where are you giving your classes?
June 15th, 2008 at 5:49 am
Dear Claudia, You can invite this client for a 45 min. session of collagen treatment. First apply collagen from ampule, then - collagen blanket, cover it with foil and let her nap for 45 min. Give her moisturizer with collagen and ceramides to use at home and schedule the next appointment in a couple of weeks for vitamin C treatment, or another antioxidant. In a future I’d suggest you to have at hand a product named Omega Peel by KNutek. It puffs up the burned dry skin and you can roll it off the surface. I’d do it before the collagen.
Things happen. Good luck.
June 15th, 2008 at 8:52 am
Colleen,
No, not all peels have to be removed. Rmembering that all products are not created equal. You did not mention what product line brought about this concern.
A peel does not necessarily mean that the skin will peel off as a snake shedding its skin. Much depends on how healthy the skin is and more importantly, the strength of the peel. You will hear it’s a 50% or a 60% etc etc. The critical point to ponder is the ph of the peel itself.
I have a number of peels that I use in my practice and which one I use totally depends on what the client is looking to accomplish. If they are ever-so-trusting and leave it up to me, I always go with “less”. The greatest advice that you can give your client though, is not to pick the “peeling” skin during the process.
June 16th, 2008 at 1:14 pm
Allyson: The peel class that we went to was for PCA Skin.
June 16th, 2008 at 11:09 pm
I just read all the entries and there some far out things being said. Glycolic at 30% is a nice refresher for someone who does not want to peel. Its a nice special event treatment but its a surface treatment. For anti aging and hyperpigmentation, or acne you need a TCA and finish off with a retinol to encourage peeling and resurfacing. There are different percentages out there from 6% to 70%. Anyone out there using a 70% better be using that for serious acne scarring only! Thats dangerous stuff and is used to wound scars so they heal with new skin. I only use a Jessners for serious resurfacing too. Micro and Jessners together used for average skin is crazy to me! My favorite line of peels is PCA and I blend that with Rhonda Allison. I use it like a chemist, tailor made for each client. The more understanding of the chemicals the more positive affect you get. I find that most estheticians either are too scared so they stick to the glycolic or they go super aggressive because thats all they know. Stick to the middle and go progressively with their skin. Enzyme treatments or microderms in between peels are a nice program. But start out mild and go from there. also if you go harsh at first there will be some serious downtime and you end up scaring the client away. Start with the Sensi (PCA)which is a 6% and next time they come in, evaluate your client and your next step for their type.
June 16th, 2008 at 11:19 pm
Oh and forgot the most important part to a peel this is crucial! No matter if I use a 6% i can usually get them to peel. And its all on how you prep the skin. I always cleanse, scrub, and degrease accordingly to their skin type. If I want it to be stronger I use a stronger toner and I make sure there is no moisture on their skin before application. I also layer according to how strong I want to be and I usually finish off with a 15% retinol and 15% lactic blend and then suncreen. Its always different on each client what I do, Its never the same! To be successful you have to be creative. Use your intuition and you will gain that through experience. Just dont get lazy and do the same thing with everyone. Thats all!
June 17th, 2008 at 9:18 am
Our classes are held in Chicago. You can check out our website http://www.trueuniversityesthetics.com
June 18th, 2008 at 8:07 pm
Eileen: Thanks for the information! I checked out your website and looked at the schedule and saw that you (or someone from your company) was here in Illinois a couple of weeks ago. I also saw that you are going to be at the Face & Body show in August. As of right now, I’m not going, but I’m still thinking about it. If I go I will look for your company. Are you the one going?
June 18th, 2008 at 8:32 pm
Kim: I know what you mean about that Sex and the City episode. That’s what I thought about too when I first saw the chemical peel demo! I knew nothing about them and was actually surprised to see that the model’s face wasn’t bright red and scary looking! :) Thanks for the information and I will definitely be learning more about these.
June 18th, 2008 at 8:47 pm
Christine: I’ve never thought about getting a peel done before. I was a little afraid of them, but after seeing a few demos, I really want one done now and I agree, everyone should have one, especially after a certain age. Thanks for the comment!
June 18th, 2008 at 9:26 pm
Terri: Thanks so much for the information! This is definitely something I need to learn more about. Thanks also for the link to your website.
June 18th, 2008 at 9:38 pm
Megan: The class I went to was for PCA Skin. I don’t work in the industry yet - I’m still a student. At school we use a Glycolic peel that’s 30%. We also do an Alphablend Maximum Exfoliant Treatment that’s 15% and an extra-strength one that’s 20%.
June 18th, 2008 at 9:45 pm
Neva: PCA Skin was the class that we attended and they gave us a lot of products to take home. I haven’t tried them yet, but Colleen and I do want to try them. Thanks for the comment!
June 18th, 2008 at 9:47 pm
Jessica: Thanks for the information. Once I get my license, I’ll have to try it.
June 18th, 2008 at 9:51 pm
Susanne: Thanks so much for the information! I’m definitely not comfortable with peels yet because I really don’t know much about them. I’ve also never had one done and I agree that it would help if I knew what it felt like. I plan on having one done soon. Thanks for the advice!
June 18th, 2008 at 10:30 pm
Delilah: A girl I go to school with just had a medical grade peel done and is having a series done. It was interesting to see her face afterwards and actually see how the peeling looks. I want to observe her face throughout all her treatments to see the results. Thanks for the information!
June 18th, 2008 at 10:31 pm
Madonna: Thanks for the tip!
June 18th, 2008 at 10:33 pm
Mary: Thanks so much for the info and advice! I’ll keep in mind about the ph of the peel. And I agree that less is more!
June 18th, 2008 at 10:40 pm
Monika: At school we start out with 15%, then we’ll do 20% after a few treatments and if their skin isn’t irritated by it. Then we’ll do 30% and that’s the highest we go. Science has never been a strong subject for me, but I’m really trying to understand everything we’re learning about ingredients and chemicals, etc. I know how important it is to understand this. It’s just taking me a little longer, but I’ll get it! Thanks for the advice and the information! It’s nice to hear from you again!
June 19th, 2008 at 7:03 am
I am an Esthetician in Upstate NY. To my knowledge, my license does not allow me to do Jessner Peels or anything over 30%. I would love to be able to provide something stronger for my clients. Does anyone know about license restrictions in this area?
June 20th, 2008 at 11:31 am
i’m a student too and i really think that AHA peels are one of my favorite things to do in class. i didn’t know that you left some peels on, what kind is that? does it make the skin peel like an AHA does? that’s amazing to me that you can do that!
June 23rd, 2008 at 8:55 am
Jessica: It’s a TCA peel and I personally have not seen the results of one so I’m unsure how the skin will look and if it will peel or not. Read all the comments for this entry - they are all very informative on the subject.
June 26th, 2008 at 10:41 am
Jessica: Yeah, the TCA peels are great, you can get different strengths. I always test their skin first but Ive never experienced anyone yet who can’t tolerate it. You can either apply with gause of brush. You can do layers depends on their skin. Finish off with a retinol if you want to insure some peeling. They go to sleep with it on and for up to 5-7 days just cleanse and moisturize, sunblock. The 2nd day their skin is all tight and looking really nice(I personally love my skin this day) The 3rd day that tightness starts to peel off. Its tight and flaky. It depends on the person and the strength of the peel. Some people flake and some people peel in sheets. Don’t pick at it and if you have skin hanging, tell your client to cut with scissors(otherwise it can create a mark or hyperpigmentation) I like flaking myself and give a heavier peel every once in awhile. The last time I did a heavy peel on myself my nose was so thick with dry skin I couldnt wrinkle it and it turned kinda brown. It was so cool though because when it peeled off I seriously had a new nose. All nice and smooth! The key is to carry moisturizer with you at all times. When its all done its amazing. Ive completely transformed my skin! People actually come up to me and tell me how nice my skin is(ive always struggled with my skin) You will love it and more importantly your clients.
June 26th, 2008 at 10:43 am
GAUZE OR BRUSH
June 30th, 2008 at 5:03 am
Monika:
What is the brand name of the TCA peel you use? Seriously, at our Spa all we use is 28% BHA peels. We leave on for a max. of 15 min. There is very little flaking and no peeling. I think we need to offer something stronger!
July 8th, 2008 at 4:09 am
I was reading your comments of the peels, just wondering where you went for the lesson and as an esthetician, can I use the same peel as she was demonstrating, want to keep up in the field and always learn, thanks you Lillian
July 8th, 2008 at 8:19 am
Sorry it took me so long to answer back. I use a combination of PCA peels and Rhonda Allison, they both have amazing classes. You should check it out. All I do all day in my business is peels. Its my main revenue!
July 8th, 2008 at 8:20 am
If you personally want to ask me any questions my email address is afterglowskin@gmail.com
July 8th, 2008 at 8:54 am
Lillian: The peel class was something that was offered to the students at the school I go to. It was through PCA Skin. Their telephone number is (877) PCA-SKIN and their website is http://www.pcaskin.com. Hope this helps!
July 18th, 2008 at 10:19 am
Are any of you familiar with using pure acid chemical peels, I am a RN and recieved my training as a medical aesthetic provider in dallas under a physician. My training was for 8 days and we went over alot of stuff but there is still so much more I would like to learn. The peels that I use are medical grade, only one layer and very little peeling occurs, I use salicylic 30%, glycolic 50%, TCA 35%, lipohydroxy 20% and modified jessner. I have only been doing this for about 6 months, and I do alot of other things as well, such as laser, microdermabrasion, facials, endermology and eyelash extensions plus botox/dermal fillers. But I really need to know more about skin care, peels, etc. My trainer taught us that the nonbuffered acid used in peels were not as effective as the pure acids, I really dont know, does anyone out there have any info for me, thanks.
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